Malaysia. A country of extreme contrasts, from towering skyscrapers to remnant sights of a developing nation. A melting pot of people and religions from all over the world, where Malays, Indians, and the Chinese live and work together in relative peace and harmony. From the bustling metropolis of Kuala Lumpur to the laid-back rural countryside and pristine tropical islands, Malaysia is a cross section of life in Asia.
From Brunei I caught a flight to Kuala Lumpur, the starting point of a three week trip through Peninsula Malaysia. Unfortunately I didn’t get to see lot in KL as it rained almost the whole time I was there.
After a few days in the capital, eating good street food in Chinatown, reminiscing on great times over chai and naan in Little India, and discovering massive modern shopping malls (one even with its own theme park and University inside), I headed up north to spend a day in Penang before catching a boat to the island of Langkawi on the north western coast of the peninsula.

The rollar coaster inside the Berjaya Times Square Mall in Central KL
I found a bungalow near the beach, and chilled there for about five days, swimming a lot and hanging out at the many reggae beach bars late into the night. Unfortunately the heat here was unbearable – even with the fan on full force my room still felt like a sauna!

Langkawi Beach
From Langkawi I caught an overnight bus to the eastern side of the peninsula, and then a morning speed boat to Perhentian Island. On the boat I meet five other backpackers from Germany and Czech Republic – I shared a bungalow and hung out with them for the five days I was there.

On the bus from Langkawi Island on the west coast to Perhentian Island on the east coast
Perhentian Island was a lot nicer than Langkawi with more of a chilled-out younger backpacker vibe, and also left the beaches in Langkawi for dead. The water surrounding the island was crystal clear with many coral reefs, making it a world-class destination for scuba diving and snorkelling tours. Most people come here to snorkel, dive, or do nothing at all.

Long Beach on Perhentian Island
With no roads, bikes, or cars, the only way to get around was to take water taxis to other parts of the island, or to walk ten minutes through the dense jungle to reach more beaches on the other side. The island also had no electricity during the day making it a lot more primitive than any of the other islands I’ve been to since travelling through Asia.

Blacktip beach bar on Long Beach

Beach on the east side of Perhentian Island
For three of the five days I was here I finally got my ‘Open Water Diving’ certificate. I was planning to get it in the Philippines but it was a lot cheaper here. So, for three days I had to learn a lot of scuba diving theory, watch videos, sit tests every day, and do an exam at the end. It was quite a shock to the system suddenly having to learn from a text book again! The course was quite full-on, doing four dives on top of all the theory and shallow water exercises, and learnt everything from mask clearing at 12m, emergency ascents, swimming tests, buoyancy control, turning the air off and using the emergency alternate regulator etc. It was fun and luckily got one-on-one training the whole time. Sometimes when classes have four people in them the exercises take forever to do! The dives we did were really good as well (although not quite as good as in the Philippines) – saw turtles, massive rays, giant moray eels, schools of barracuda, many puffer fish etc! With the certificate now I am able to descend to a depth of 18m… I will hopefully be able to do some more diving at Tioman Island if I have time to go there before leaving Malaysia!
With the diving course taking up at least eight hours a day, I was only really able to chill at night with the other backpackers I met. The island had great seafood BBQ’s that lined the beach every night. Ridiculously cheap for only $7, you get to choose either prawns, squid, shark, ray, kingfish etc, which was grilled and included salad, potatoes, a welcome drinks and dessert! Such good value – we ate there every night! After eating at the seafood BBQ’s we would have a few drinks at the makeshift beach bars, with bonfires and fire dancers, and which would sometimes would turn into a dance party as the night went on…

Seafood BBQ restaurants

Seafood BBQ


Fire dancers at Blacktip beach bar
Five days on the island took its toll with the pounding heat, doing the three day intensive scuba diving course, and the lure of the island nightlife… I left exhausted, and was ready for a break in the cooler temperature of the Cameron Highlands…
no comments